Pinot gris (Ruländer)
The elegant Pinot Gris, once marketed as sweet and heavy Ruländer, is now one of the favorites of wine lovers.
Place value
In Rheinhessen, 2. 147 ha*, 8% (2021) of the total cultivated area is planted with Pinot Gris, of which 5.4 ha* (corresponding to 6.9% of the total Harxheim wine-growing area) can be found in Harxheim. The proportion of vineyards has increased steadily in recent years, given the great popularity of these wines.
Gray Burgundy in the line
Image source: Marion Schenk
Grey Burgundy
Image source: Marion Schenk
History
Gray Burgundy probably originated in Burgundy and came to Switzerland and Hungary in the 14th century. In the 16th century the vine came to the Kaiserstuhl. Johann Ruland found the Pinot Gris at the beginning of the 18th century in an overgrown vineyard in Speyer. He propagated the vine, which is why it was classified under the name Ruländer. Grauer Burgunder or Grauburgunder are the synonyms allowed for this variety in Germany. The grape shape is reminiscent of a pine cone, from which the French word Pinot, Pin (pine). In the 70s and 80s of the last century, the wines were still marketed as Ruländer. In the 80s, this wine gained notoriety and also popularity through the Italian name Pinot Grigio.
Vinification
Grauer Burgunder (French: Pinot Gris) is classified in Germany under the synonym Ruländer. Its berry skin is colored red or even gray, but it still belongs to the white wine varieties. Until the 1990s, mainly very ripe grapes, some of them noble rot, with a botrytis infestation were used for vinification, producing heavy sweet wines with a slightly caramel botrytis tone. Towards the end of the last century, winegrowers began to bring the grapes to their cellars earlier and thus healthier. This produced more elegant wines with higher acidity and less sweetness. They are no longer marketed under the name Ruländer, but as Grauburgunder or Grauer Burgunder. The Pinot Gris is aged either in stainless steel tanks or, in the meantime, again in wooden or barrique barrels. Depending on the style of aging, the wines are pale yellow or golden yellow. If they are aged noble sweet, they can also look amber.
Pleasure
Gray Burgundy has fruity aromas reminiscent of citrus, pineapple, pear, dried fruit and raisins. Flavors of fresh butter, almonds and nuts are also possible. There may also be green beans and peppers as vegetative odor notes. These wines go very well with strong sea fish or with seafood, but also with pasta. If the wines are powerfully aged in a wooden barrel, they are an excellent accompaniment to young game, lamb, venison and wild fowl. Noble sweet or fruity sweet Ruländer go very well with desserts with honey, marzipan and almonds or also with a fatty noble mushroom cheese.
Status: 29.12.2022: Deutsches Weininstitut 2022 White grape varieties Pinot gris https://www.deutscheweine.de/wissen/rebsorten/weisse-rebsorten/grauburgunder/
Rheinhessenwein e. V. 2022 White grape varieties Pinot Gris https://www.rheinhessen.de/grauburgunder
Wikipedia Pinot gris https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinot_gris
